The "Velas Turtle Festival" had been advertised by various tour groups all over the Internet on "Facebook" and hence decided to attend the same, a 2-day/1 night group package tour .Contacted Mr Ankit.Savla of "Treks and trails" and confirmed my participation by paying the necessary tour charges of Rs 1850.Scheduled departure was Friday(11-4-2014) night at 2300 hrs from Dadar(East).
The "Turtle Festival" at Velas has been organized since 2002 by the "Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra" a N.G.O made up of local villagers.Over the years it has become a annual seasonal tourist pilgrimage to Velas , a small sea-side village in Ratnagiri district of Maharashtra to witness the unique phenomenon of Olive Ridley turtle hatchlings being released into the sea. Velas is also historically famous as the birthplace of Nana.Phadnavis, the influential Statesman and Minister during the "Peshwa Rule" of the Maratha Empire in Pune. He was nicknamed the "Maratha Maciavelli" by the Europeans..
Road map and distance from Mumbai to "Velas Turtle Festival"
Friday(11-4-2014) Departure to Velas beach from Mumbai :- Velas sea beach is approximately 216 Kms from Mumbai city. Reporting terminus for boarding the tour bus was the usual location of Dadar(East) near Swaminarayan Temple.Almost all the "Tour Groups" of Mumbai were conducting this week-end tour to Velas village beginning on Friday(11-4-2014) and ending on Sunday(13-4-2014). This month was almost the end of the hatching season for the Olive Ridley turtles and the next turtle hatching season would be in 2015.Hence the great turtle tourist rush.Was early at the bus meeting point the rest of the tour group arriving later.At approx 2215 hrs our bus arrived and "Treks and Trails" tour leader Mr Sarfaraz.Baghdadi introduced himself and directed us to the bus.We finally departed from Dadar at approx 2245 hrs.En-route a few more tourists were collected and the long night journey to Velas village was a reality.My co-tourist sitting next to me was a young architect from Mumbai Mr Saurav.Jain and as usual total strangers became acquaintances.It was a rough journey of a sleepless morning and we finally reached Velas village at approx 0500 hrs.
"Velas Village".
"TURTLE HATCHERY" on VELAS VILLAGE BEACH.
Opening the "Hatch Basket Covers" in the "Morning (0700 hrs)".
Saturday(12-4-2014) Arrival Velas Village for "Turtle Festival Tour" :- It was pitch dark on our arrival into the village and we gradually made our way with torches on the narrow village road to our cottage accommodation.After depositing our luggage and a quick wash and toilet we headed back to our bus to visit the "Velas Turtle Hatchery". We were a total of 22 tourists consisting of young men and women from various professions . Counting tour leader Mr Sarfaraz.Baghdadi and his assistant Mr Hiren.Vora.Anna , the total number in "Treks and Trails" group was 24.It was a short drive from our village residence to the main road nearest to the hatchery site on Velas beach,first rays of dawn finally having arrived.From the bus it was a short walk on a narrow pathway to the beach.There were numerous sign-boards placed at various points along the pathway by "Tata Consultancy services(TCS)" ,the sponsors of the turtle conservation project in Velas village .These sign boards educated the tourists on the life-cycle and hazards posed to sea turtles in their natural environment as also the importance of Velas village in Sea turtle conservation in India.Every year numerous female turtles arrive at various locations in Velas, Murud,Harnai and Dapoli to nest on the beaches. Their eggs are collected and relocated in the "TURTLE HATCHERY" on Velas sea beach for safe hatching and release into the sea.Stray dogs , birds and humans are the main threat to turtle eggs in the wild ,besides unpredictable climate changes.Out of every 1000 live hatchlings released from the hatchery site only one of them will finally emerge into a full grown adult turtle.This statistic indicates the mortality rate of the species in the wild seas.Nature is very cruel .At 0615 hrs we were the earliest tour group to have arrived at the barricade nesting site.The "TURTLE HATCHERY" was a fenced square shaped enclosure situated approximately 100 meters from the beach sea waves.The baby turtles are collected in a basket and taken to the beach to be released after hatching, a grand spectacle for tourists and hence the name "VELAS TURTLE FESTIVAL". Inside the square fenced hatch site there were a couple of wooden spokes driven into the soft sand near one end of the fence.These spokes are numbered and tagged,indicating the number of eggs buried in the sand next to the spoke and also the date. This information is essential to estimate the approximate day of turtle hatching .
Velas Beach where the annual "VELAS TURTLE FESTIVAL" is held.
Three inverted cane baskets adjacent to three spokes covered the sand indicating that these three "Turtle Nest Sites" were due any day or hour for hatching.Gradually the tourist crowd started arriving and as a veteran traveller having toured with various local tour groups came across Mr Manoj.Kalwar the tour leader of "Trek Mates" group and Mr Jagdish.Patil , the tour leader of "Shikar Vedh" Group.Met Mr Amitayu.Dey a veteran hobby photographer and trekker with whom i had once been on a nature outing.He was working for "T.C.S(Tata Consultancy Services)", the main sponsors of "Turtle Conservation" in Velas village.He and a small group of his co-employees from "T.C.S" were on a field project of inspecting the conservation and and tourism project in Velas village. He travels to most wild-life sanctuaries and projects which are sponsored by the "Tata Group of Companies". Some of the best wild-life photo's i have seen on "Facebook" have been posted by him, a man with a tremendous zest and knowledge of nature and the environment. At 0700 hrs the tourist crowd was tense and silent as the volunteers of the turtle hatchery entered the enclosure to inspect the enclosed baskets.One at a time each basket was opened and sadly we all were disappointed as all three were empty, not a single turtle having been hatched in the sand below the surface.The baskets were then replaced as before, the next inspection due in the evening at 1900 hrs.
Dangers to unprotected "Turtle Nests".This dog is hunting crabs.
There was hope for us tourists in the fact that the sand below the last basket had a deep indentation, an indication that turtles could hatch in the evening or the next day.
After opening of the "Turtle Baskets" akin to a "Lottery" the tourist crowd dispersed onto the beach.Akin to "Matka", i wouldn't be surprised if there was illegal betting on the probabilities of sighting turtle hatchlings in a basket or the number of turtles!We strolled around the beach and i was lucky to observe and photograph a local stray dog digging the soft sea beach sand for small hermit crabs.This was the first time i saw such wild hunting by strays .Most turtle eggs if unprotected fall prey to dogs and other wild animals and birds.Thats nature and the way of life and living.
From the beach we went back to our village cottage.
"Treks and Trails" group on Velas Beach.
The "Turtle Festival" season in Velas village lasts a few months from January to April and hence a seasonal tourist business.During this period most village houses are given on rent to "Package tour groups", the owners vacating and staying elsewhere, akin to the modern concept of "Time-Sharing Tourism". Our small rental cottage was akin to a 2-bedroom flat with a large beetle-nut and coconut plantation in its backyard and the neighboring farm-house cattle stable adjoining its property.This was one of the best rustic farmhouses i had stayed in decades.The lady tourists were allotted a separate room facing the farm plantation while we males were allotted the room facing the village road.This farm-house was only for residential purposes while food was arranged at a nearby farm-house bungalow a few meters down the village road. This large bungalow known as "Hemant.Saldulkar" bungalow now run by Priyanka.Saldulkar served food as well as provided residential accommodation, the most popular on the small village street..There were framed portraits on the bungalows interior wall of the owners with prominent Maharashtrian politicians Mr Sharad.Pawar,one of India's most recognizable politicians and Mr Chaggan.Bhujpal .2014 being a election year also had the flag of the "N.C.P(National Congress Party)" fluttering on the roof of this village bungalow, the owners making their political intentions clear.Breakfast was at this palatial village bungalow , excellent "Maharashtrian Sheera", a local Indian sweet dish. After breakfast we walked back to our residential cottage where i explored the backyard farm and cattle stable, the ultimate rural India, typical of any village.Made friends with a local dog also clicking a "Selfie" with it.Seems animals and birds are always attracted towards me, be it horses, cats, dogs or birds.
Entrance to Bankot Fort.
At approx 1030 hrs we boarded the bus and headed towards Bankot Fort.It was a short 1 Km drive along Velas village coastline ,the road hugging the sea and later a steep curved climb up a small 46 Meters(151 feet) hill to reach the fort.The view from the fort entrance of the Velas coastline was beautiful, picture-postcard.At the other side of the fort was a entire hill-side covered with mango trees, Ratnagiri district being the home of the World famous Alphonso mangoes(Happus).
On the Fortified walls of Bankot Fort.
The fort ramparts were crowded with tourists and everyone was camera happy including Uncle Rudolph! Bankot Fort was the first residency of the "British Raj" in Southern Konkan. "Bankot" is a corruption of the Marathi phrase "Bavanna Kot" which means 52 in Marathi language. Chhatrapati Shivaji ,the Maratha Emperor captured this fort making it the 52nd fort under his rule and hence the name "Bankot".After photography akin to a "Model /Film Assignment" we made our way into this historic small fort, the size of two basketball courts. The interior of the Fort was in ruins .There were approx eight large mango trees inside the small fort complex in various phases of decay due to parasitic plant growth on its branches.Walked up the ancient fort steps and strolled along the fortified walls of the Fort.The weather was one of the best i had experienced this year, cool but not freezing cold with a bright hot overhead sunshine.As a "Name-dropping World tourist" its difficult for any place or Country to mesmerize me barring London and now Velas village. A village where "Father Time" has stood still akin to the turtle that has existed since the era of the dinosaurs.After everyone finished saturating their camera clicks we finally departed from the fort and headed back to out small village.Mid-way it was realized that a co-tourist was missing and hence the bus stopped on the road facing the coastal sea beach.While Hiren went back to look for the missing passenger i suddenly spotted a pond heron stalking its prey on the beach. It stood still like a statue for approx 15 minutes, the entire bus watching this miracle of nature.My binoculars proved its heavy value in the observation of this common bird in its natural habitat.Finally our bus departed and the bird was still in its model photo of a living bird statue !
Our beautiful cottage farmhouse rental in Velas Village.
Bullock carts and tourist cars in Velas Village.
Buses can't enter the narrow village road and hence parked outside the main village.It was a short walk from the bus to our farm-house cottage.On arrival at our cottage i was the first person to have a "Open-Air bathe" with well-water,classic rustic village life-style.There was only one bathroom and one toilet in the farmhouse complex and hence difficult for 24 of us to have bathe in a given time-frame.The "Well-Water" solved the men's bathing problems, the waste water being used to irrigate the small coconut and beetle-nut plantation.Mr Sarfaraz.Baghdadi spoke to the local care-taker of the farm-house regarding "Maddy", the common local coconut tree semi-alcoholic drink.Co-tourist Saurav and myself decided to have "Maddy" in the house next door to our cottage.A bottle of "Maddy" cost Rs 30 and was excellent, fresh and sweet.Actually i had not intended embarking on a tour this soon having just completed a hectic grueling 16 day solo tour just a month ago.It was the call of the "Velas Turtles" that made me undergo this short group tour and i didn't regret it a second At approx 1330 hrs we walked to "Saldulkar Bungalow" for our lunch.Honestly, i am more European than Indian in sitting habits and cannot squat on the floor in "Yoga Style" for long periodsbut managed the same although my co-tourists recognized my discomfort.Tell me to walk, swim or live in discomfort as i sometimes do on my "Solo Tours" then i could win a prize for the same. Lunch was a lavish vegetarian Maharashtrian Thali, the pickle being my source of culinary interest,just excellent.After lunch it was siesta time where almost all my co-tourists hit the sleep button and snored to glory on mattresses placed on the floor, typical village style living.I wandered into the countryside exploring this small one-horse village. Barring tourists the entire village seemed empty, sparsely populated with almost every small country house having a backyard farm.The most important factor in Velas village was the availability of fresh water.Almost every village farm-house had a well which provided drinking as well as irrigation water.These wells never run dry even during the peak dry months of April/May before the onset of monsoon.In our small farm-house there was constant running water from a tap, a luxury not common in most villages including some plush buildings in Mumbai.
The walk towards the "Turtle Nesting Site" on Velas Beach.
Tea was at "Saldulkar Bungalow", a very well organized tour where lodging was separate and catering separate.Our next agenda was visiting the "Turtle Nest Site" at 1800 hrs hoping to be lucky to witness a turtle having emerged from its shell into the inverted basket and later released into the sea.Most of my co-tourists decided to go to the turtle nest site by bus while a few of us decided to walk along with Mr Hiren.Vora to the nest site thereby also exploring the small village.It was a long walk through a few short-cuts through farm-houses, a nice small village having a ancient temple and a mosque.The beach was crowded with tourists and as we were a bit late had a back row view of the three covered nests inside the "Turtle Hatching Enclosure". At approx 1800 hrs the main care-takers and handlers of the turtle hatchery arrived into the enclosure.As usual the procedure of checking the inverted baskets was explained as also the discipline required from the tourists while releasing a turtle into the sea
Ahoy! A tiny turtle in the basket .
.
The baskets were opened with suspense and on opening the third and last basket a tiny turtle was sighted on the sand. The crowd of tourists went crazy with happiness and wonder. The tiny turtle was picked and put into a basket lined with a gunny cloth as shown in the photo and quickly taken to the sea-front.A huge crowd including me followed the basket and hence managed this lucky photo.Releasing the turtle into the sea was the toughest part of the entire spectacle.Normally at least two or more turtles get hatched together, sometimes in dozens.This was a rare instance where a single turtle emerged from a cluster of underground eggs.This turtle seemed weak, besides it didn't have the guidance of a "Herd Mentality" as is common in all species of animals.The turtle heads towards the sea with the guidance of natural light and hence "Flash Photography" strictly prohibited.The turtle would crawl a few steps and then stop or head sideways rather than straight towards the sea.Finally , the turtle hatchery handler took it towards the sea and released it into the water.We were relieved for having witnessed the birth and release of a Olive Ridley hatchling.
Barricade for tourists at "Turtle Release site" on beach.
This same turtle if it survives a 1:1000 chance of reaching 15 years of age and if female will return back to this beach for laying eggs continuing the cycle of million of years of turtle evolution, much before we humans colonized Planet Earth.After witnessing the turtle release i walked back towards the main road and on the way met co-tourist Mrs Bhatnagar .She had come all the way from Pune to Mumbai along with 3 other lady's, all "I.T Professionals" on a week-end nature tour.In Mumbai they boarded our tourist bus for Velas, a real long road journey.On the way we met Mr Hiren.Vora and Mr Manoj.Kalwar who were heading for the documentary film show on turtles and vultures to be shown in a house compound of the "Turtle Festival Organizer".We joined them and the long walk was worth the fatigue .A screen was set in a large house compound and we were the first early birds to arrive. The compound gradually got "House-Full" with tourists and it was a educative evening on vulture and turtle conservation .It was getting late and towards the end of the film we decided to leave, the torchlight and Mr Hiren.Vora being our guide back to cottage.Before dinner had a bottle of "Madi", much better than "Kingfisher beer" when fresh and not fermented.
Dinner in Velas village.
At approx 2115 hrs we all went for dinner and honestly, it was decades since i last remember village dinners akin to village weddings.The house crowded with us tourists all squatting on the floor enjoying lavish vegetarian food.After dinner Saurav, Sarfaraz and myself went for a long walk along the village road, the road lit by the full moon night.The sea was very rough and swimming is discouraged on the Velas beach. Just a month ago in March a young man from Pune lost his life on the Velas beach while a few of his friends were rescued by Sarfaraz and some other people.After a long walk along the coastline we walked up a small hill where we met some of our group members.It was excellent weather on a moonlit night with the sound of waves lashing against the coast.It was almost 2230 hrs and i had not slept since the bus ride and hence decided to call it a night and pack up to the village cottage.We went to the cottage where i stayed back while Saurav and Sarfaraz went back with bed-sheets to the small hillock.I did get some sleep but was woken at 0100 hrs by the arrival of the rest of the tour gang.I got to experience community living, the working class way.I wonder how groups of immigrants live in congested rooms in hot climates ,namely the "Middle-East".For a day or two i could always adjust to such living conditions but never more than that.
"FRESH MADDY" directly from the "COCONUT TREE" in Velas Village.
Sunday(13-4-2014) Departure Velas and visit to Harihareshwar Temple :- I must have slept for just 2 or 3 hours waking up at 0500 hrs.Everyone was asleep, the entire floor lined with men.Washed my face and did my toilet routines.The village road resembled a ghost town, absolutely empty.Came back to the room and just lay down awaiting daylight.At the first rays of daylight ventured out and observed the neighboring house lady applying cattle dung to the front porch of her cottage house and later incense, a ritual common to most of the houses in Velas village.One strange fact i observed was the total absence of the dreaded "MOSQUITO" in entire Velas village although stables and farm plots were common throughout the village.In my own home city of Mumbai in the plush locality of Prabhadevi we have the menace of mosquito's and this was one strange beauty of living in Velas village.
"Machaan" on Velas Beach near "Turtle Nest Enclosure".
At approx 0600 hrs the entire entourage was awake and a few of us decided to walk to the "Turtle nesting site". It was a pleasant walk early in the morning, the village now becoming more familiar due to walking.As a "Solo Traveller" i always make it a point to walk and discover a city with a tourist guide map . Here Mr Hiren.Vora was our guide, very familiar with the local village and a fast pace walker, a strong contender for India's men's walking team.I am a fast walker myself but found Hiren almost jogging while i walked !There was a big crowd at the nesting enclosure with the same ritual systematically applied .At sharp 0700 hrs the three baskets were inverted in a row and to our disgust not a single turtle emerged. Thank destiny for that one lone turtle that enthralled the entire tourist crowd. Most tourists would be now heading back to their normal city lives, Velas being a excellent week-end getaway from city life.
Typical village house in Velas village.
We walked back towards our village cottage, myself beginning to feel and act like a local!On the way we came across a man climbing down a tree with a utensil filled with "Maddy". It was the discovery of the day, equivalent to "Turtle hatchling sighting".Sarfaraz purchased "Maddy" for us and it was the best fresh drink i had drunk in a long time, straight from the coconut tree.In Velas i was drinking "Maddy" instead of water, unbelievably true.After quenching our thirst with "Maddy" we walked towards our cottage farm.On the way passed by the only official hotel in Velas, the "M.T.D.C" bungalow for tourists, one of the rare modern building not having a Mangalore tiled roof.On reaching our cottage i had a quick bathe and packed my luggage.We were told to pack up and directly head for breakfast with our luggage.
At approx 0930 hrs we all vacated our farm-house room and headed for breakfast at our usual village bungalow.Breakfast consisted of "Shoji/Tea", an excellent preparation and there was a offer of buying pure Alphonso mangoes from the house farm costing only Rs 1000/Dozen.These mangoes were raw and hence carting them to Mumbai would be a expensive affair if some mangoes later turned rotten due to transport damage.After breakfast we boarded our bus and finally departed from Velas at approx 1100 hrs, a memorable part of our short week-end tour coming to a end.
Ferry At "Veshvi Jetty"
It was a long drive up Bankot Fort town to reach the ferry terminal at "Veshvi Pier".A bridge is under construction to link Velas and Bagmandle and hence this ferry service might soon be history.At approx 1115 hrs we reached Veshvi jetty and had to wait in the convoy queue for boarding.At the pier met another tour operator Mr Bertram.Fonseca who conducted private guided tours, his rented farm house being just next to ours and whom i mistook to be a private family on vacation.. He was a cyclist who had accomplished long inter-city rides, a adventurer now in the tourist business.We finally boarded the "Shanta Durga Ferry" at approx 1215 hrs , the ferry heading towards Bagmandale pier on the opposite side. At approx 1230 hrs we reached Bagmandale pier and from there it was a short drive along the coast to Harihareshwar temple.At approx 1300 hrs we reached the temple precincts.
View of the gorge from Harihareshwar temple hill.
The river Savitri enters the Arabian sea at the town of Harihareshwar and the temple of Lord Harihareshwar is one of the sacred sites in Hinduism, a major pilgrimage centre. Barring Sarfaraz ,Miss Smera.Paul and myself all the rest of our tour crowd were Hindus and hence everyone religiously visited the temple.Struck a conversation with Smera.Paul , a I.T professional from Pune and was surprised to note that she had lived and worked in South Africa for a few years on company deputation. Through her i came to know that a minimum of 3 days is required to sight-see a part of "Kruger National Park", one of the largest National parks in the World.She also told me about the unbelievable crime rate in South Africa. most notably Alexandra township near Johannesburg. Is Oscar.Pistorious telling the truth about his mistaken identity murder of his girlfriend Reeva.Steenkamp ? Travel educates and during my solo as well as group tours i have made numerous acquaintances and learnt many new facts and lies of life and living.
Unique etchings on rock caves.
After everyone had finished their visit to the temple we walked up a the hill next to the temple.It was a tiresome uphill walk but on reaching the top the view of the sea beach was excellent.The 2.4 Km long sand beach in front of Harihareshwar temple is a popular swimming destination and also has water sports.From the top of the hill there is a rock cut stairway that leads right down a gorge to the beach .We walked down the stairway landing on the rock surface of the sea -beach.The rock faces at the hill side had odd and bizarre etchings, akin to man-made carvings.We all walked along the rocky beach surface with Velas beach clearly visible on the opposite side.It was a circular walk along the cliff face onto the main beach.
Harihareshwar Sea beach.
From the beach we headed towards the main temple road and into a restaurant for lunch.
Lunch was a vegetarian thali. After lunch i did some shopping of Ratnagiri delicacies.The Konkan region of Maharashtra is famous for its "Amba Poli" ,"Sweets"and "Pappads".Finally at approx 1530 hrs we all boarded our bus and began the long journey back home to Mumbai.On the way Sarfaraz suddenly spotted a Hornbill sitting on a tree. We stopped the bus and to our amazement it was a "Oriental Pied hornbill " , the smallest among the Asian Hornbill species. Thanks to co-tourist Mr Anup.Ingole that we managed to capture a photo of this beautiful and rare sighting.
A male"Oriental Pied HORNBILL" :- Numero uno bird sighting of our Velas tour. Photo :- Mr Anup.Ingole.
It was jet black in colour and my binoculars proved its weight in gold although i am no professional bird-watcher. Got its identification later on arrival in Mumbai and consultation with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)" members on "Facebook".Ironically, this bird is also the mascot of "B..N.H.S" society . After observing and photographing this magnificent specimen we headed on-wards to Mumbai.We were late by a few hours and at approx 1800 hrs reached Indapur. 4 of our co-lady tourists had to catch a connecting bus or taxi from Indapur and hence we had a rest-stop of approximately a hour in Indapur. We had tea while the bus took the 4 ladies to the taxi stand. A motorcycle repair shop was next to our tea-shop and i happen to spot a brand new "Yamaha RX 100" motorcycle, a bike extinct in India as it is no more manufactured.Inquired with the motocycle shop owner and was surprised to be speaking to one of the best motorcycle mechanics in Indapur city.He rebuilds old junk motorcycles with new spare parts and makes them look brand new akin to the "Yamaha R X100" .He requested me to "Test Ride" the brand new rebuilt motorcycle and i thanked him for the same not wanting to be a total adrenalin junkie.Our bus finally returned , the lady's back in the same bus as they couldn't get a taxi/bus to Pune.They decided to get down at Nerul where taxi's and buses to Pune are regular and available.It was a long journey and we took the "Pune-Mumbai Expressway" which reduced our travel time.As usual co-travellers alighted the bus at various points on arriving into Mumbai.Finally at approx 2245 hrs we reached Dadar.Alighted the bus , boarded a taxi and was back home in Prabhadevi.
P.S :- In August 2014 i had been on a tour of Indonesia and chanced to visit the "PROYAK PENYU turtle hatchery" in "Reef Seen Resort" in Pemuteran town in Bali.Got to study and view the entire life-cycle of a turtle.Read bout it in my blog :- http://indonesiasolotravel.blogspot.in/
